Quick Tip for the Week

21 sep 05

Jack O’Connor considered a trophy whitetail buck to
be the most difficult of American big game animals
to bag. They do not grow those huge sets of antlers
by being foolish!
More than noise or scent, I would say that the
biggest danger of spooking a wary whitetail is that
he will see your movement. Walk softly, stay upwind
of the area you want to hunt, and stay out of sight.
Work the edges of tree- or brush-lines and keep low
when possible.
Many times, you can walk right by one while stalking
or still-hunting and not even know it; other times,
they
will detect you abscond with impressive stealth. You
will probably enter an area never knowing that they
had just left. If you are seen, a whitetail might try to
wait it out while you pass. If you stop for a moment
every 15 or 20 yards and carefully look around, you
might notice or jump a trophy.
For more recipes, as well as excellent
outdoors-related discussion, be sure to visit
www.baitshopboyz.com!~~

5 oct 05

If you have a rifle that isn’t shooting accurately, don’t
be too quick to sell it! Chances are that you can do
some very simple and inexpensive things to correct
the problem.

Regarding the rifle itself, you have several options.
Open up the barrel channel a bit in order to free-float
the barrel. You can also glass bed the barrel very
easily, or even install pillars to ensure metal-to-
metal contact. Any of these steps will help to
stabilize the relationship between your rifle barrel
and your sock. Another simple option would be to
have the muzzle crowned in order to ensure that the
gasses are exiting in a way that won’t de-stabilize
the bullet.

If you handload, you have even more options. You
can try different components; brass, primers,
powders or bullets. You can also vary your powder
charges or the seating depth of your bullet.
Sometimes even a tenth of a grain of powder or a
thousandth of an inch in the seating depth will shrink
groups dramatically.

Almost any rifle should be capable of printing a one-
inch group at a hundred yards. In order to achieve
this goal, it is usually a matter of tuning your rifle and
ammunition; however, the final accuracy of any rifle
will always lie with the shooter.

For more recipes, as well as excellent outdoors-
related discussion, be sure to visit
www.baitshopboyz.com!

19 oct 2005


Anyone with questions or tips regarding hunting,
shooting or fishing is encouraged to submit them by
mail to The Journal in care of Ronald Fischer; they
can also be emailed to bcj_fischer@yahoo.com.
Selected tips or answers to selected questions will
be posted when possible.

When it comes to truly enjoying your deer or
antelope at the table, first and most important is to
do the butchering yourself. It is not that difficult and
no way mysterious. Once you get started removing
the meat from the bone it is all self-explanatory. For
what it is worth, I have butchered all my own game
except one deer, and the main thing I have learned
is to get everything off of the meat that isn't meat,
because careful trimming will ensure the best
tasting meal. This includes fat, membrane,
silverskin, bone, you name it. Trim it off carefully with
a very sharp fillet knife, you will be left with a nice
roast, which you can package or cut into steaks,
butterfly steaks or cubes.

Another thing, at least in this cool, dry climate, is to
leave the animal to hang a few days. This will age
the meat and make it very tasty, using the same
process that the big beef places use for prime rib
and such. Here in north-central Montana,
considering the weather during hunting season, I
can let a deer hang for a week easily; even two
weeks, if it gets cold during the night and the deer is
hung in a shady place such as in a garage or shed.
Then I can skin and butcher it over a weekend.
Antelope, on the other hand, should probably not be
hung longer than 3-4 days because of the warmer
temperatures during the day and the fact that
antelope meat is much more delicate than deer.

If you have to skin it immediately because of the
climate or cannot hang it for some reason, you can
skin it, then cut out the loins and tenderloins and
remove the front quarters, then saw the hindquarters
into two quarters. Place each quarter into a trash
bag (unscented) and the loins and backstraps into
another one and store them in the fridge for at least
3 days, but no more than a week.

There is not much steak on the shoulder. Trying to
make steak of any cut other than the tenderloin, loin
or hindquarter sets you up for disappointment.
Having said that, the shoulder is excellent meat and
after being boned should be cubed up for stew
meat, burger or sausage if you like.

The loin and tenderloin cuts speak for themselves.
Simply bone along the backbone ridge and off of the
ribs.

The best way of butchering the hindquarters is to
first remove them one at a time from the pelvic bone.
It will take some experience to remove the quarters
cleanly. But don't worry about your first efforts,
whatever you botch up makes excellent stew meat to
add to your shoulder.

Once you have the removed quarters, examine them.
There are lines to follow for undoing the muscle
groups. Use the tip of a fillet knife and slit along
these lines and pull with your other hand to separate
the muscles from one another along the vellum
(silverskin) folds. The entire quarter will come apart
this way. Some of the muscles will be flat and
diagonal, some will be round and straight, but all will
be separated from each other by the gray vellum that
allows the muscles to slide against each other as
the animal moves. Use this vellum as your road
map to disassemble the quarter.

Once you have separated the major groups, trim
every bit of fat, membrane and silverskin off and
slice the steaks perpendicular to (across) the grain.

As for the ribcage and neck, there are many options.
You can trim quite a bit of good meat off for jerky or
cut the ribs into equal sections, then saw the
sections in half and wrap them for barbecued ribs.
Cut the neck off and wrap it whole as a roast. If none
of these options works for you, you can take the
whole thing in to be made into burger or sausage.

When it comes to packaging venison, I have become
a very big believer in using home vacuum sealers.
They are inexpensive, convenient and work very well
to keep meat fresh. If you do not have one, there is
another easy option that works just as well. Portion
out your meat as you wish (I do a pound at a time),
then stuff the meat into a quart-sized freezer bag.
Gently squeeze out all the air you can, then fold the
bag in half, and seal, taking care to keep air from
entering. Freeze each bag separately (not stacked
together) on a flat surface in the freezer. The reason
for this is because the meat will freeze faster and be
less likely to develop ice crystals, which can affect
the texture and flavor. If you are packaging more than
a pound of meat, folding the bag over may not be
necessary, and you can freeze if flat.

Once frozen, the bags can be wrapped in paper for
extra protection and stacked in the freezer. Be sure
to label the bag with the species, the date, the
weight or number of portions, and any other
information you feel to be pertinent.

If you have a dog, it will love you for keeping the
scraps, portioning them into dog-sized meals,
freezing them in plastic bags and wrapping the bags
in paper. I label these packages "DOG;" The kids
think it is hilarious and the neighbors wonder....

For more tips, as well as excellent outdoors-related
discussion, be sure to visit www.baitshopboyz.com!

9 nov 05
--------------

Quick Tip
For The Week

Anyone with questions or tips regarding hunting, shooting or fishing is
encouraged to submit them by mail to The Journal in care of Ronald
Fischer; they can also be emailed to bcj_fischer@yahoo.com.
Selected tips or answers to selected questions will be posted when
possible.

As per Mr. Jack O'Connor, here are some "rules" for long-range hunting. I
believe that they can be agreed upon by most anyone who does much
hunting.

• A long-range shot should never be taken if there is a reasonable chance
of getting closer.

• A long-range shot should never be taken if the rifleman feels doubtful
of his ability to make a good, solid, well-placed hit.

• A long-range shot should never be taken if the hunter cannot get into a
solid position - prone with a sling, from a rest, etc.

• A long-range shot should never be taken at any dangerous animal - a
brown, grizzly or polar bear, a lion, a tiger, a leopard, a cape buffalo.

• A long-range shot should never be taken at an unwounded, running
animal.

• A long-range shot should never be taken if the animal shot at can get
out of sight so quickly that it would be difficult to ascertain the effect of
the shot.

• A long-range shot should not be taken if the range is so great that a
hold on top of the shoulders will not drop a bullet into the chest cavity.

(Note from O’Connor)
“These rules may seem ultra conservative to many, and I must admit that
there have been times when I did not follow them myself. however, the
more I hunt and the more I see others shoot the more convinced I am that
they are wise and sensible rules and if they were universally adopted the
number of game animals that get away wounded to suffer and die would
be greatly reduced.”

The question then remains, what defines a long-range shot on a game
animal?

I believe that each hunter has to make an honest evaluation of his own
abilities (not the rifle's) and let his moral and ethical judgment guide his
choice when the game is sighted.     For some, this might be a hundred
yards, for others, it might be three hundred, or more. The key here is a
decision based on values and experience as well frank and honest
assessment of abilities, not based on the size of the rack on the animal!

For more tips, as well as excellent outdoors-related discussion, be sure
to visit www.baitshopboyz.com!

Edited by TasunkaWitko

23 nov 05

-----------------------------

Quick Tip
For The Week

Anyone with questions or tips regarding hunting, shooting or fishing is
encouraged to submit them by mail to The Journal in care of Ronald
Fischer; they can also be emailed to bcj_fischer@yahoo.com.

Selected tips or answers to selected questions will be posted when
possible.

Maps are indispensable tools for the hunter or angler. Whether you use
contour maps or river channel maps for fishing, or topographical or
state/private land boundary maps for hunting, chances are there is a very
good chance of your map getting wet, dirty or both. Some specialized
maps for fishing large bodies of water are water resistant, but most are
not, including any maps used for hunting. They can, however, be easily
protected.

Lay your map out on newspaper and apply a coat of waterproof sealant
such as Thompson’s Water Seal, designed for treating concrete block and
wood. Spread the sealant on both sides of your map with a foam varnish
brush. Cover the surface, but don’t drench it. Use clothespins to hang the
map from a line until it dries.

When dry, the map will fold easily and will be waterproof, protecting it
from even the worst that the elements (or even a hunter or angler!) can
dish out.     

For more tips, as well as excellent outdoors-related discussion, be sure
to visit www.baitshopboyz.com!

7 dec 05

-----------------------------

Quick Tip For The Week

Anyone with questions or tips regarding hunting, shooting or fishing is
encouraged to submit them by mail to BCJ in care of Ronald Fischer; they
can also be emailed to bcj_fischer@yahoo.com.

Selected tips or answers to selected questions will be posted when
possible.

The following was written with fishing in mind; however, there is
absolutely no reason why most of it cannot be adapted for hunting
applications.

Good photos prolong the memory of a trip, but many folks still have
trouble taking interesting pictures. Their photos are out of focus or
poorly-lit, the background is cluttered, and the fish looks stiff and
lifeless. The problems are endless.

The first step toward taking better photos is to start with a reliable
camera. Casual photographers can take good photos with one of the
many fully automatic 35mm pocket cameras ort disposable cameras,
some of which are waterproof.

These days, a decent digital camera is relatively affordable, and easy to
use. A good optical zoom is a must, as is a resolution of at least 3.1
megapixels. Don’t worry, I don’t know what a megapixel is either, but I
do know, the more the better.

The tips that follow can help you take better pictures next time you go
fishing (or hunting). By paying attention to detail and giving up a few
minutes to concentrate on your photography, you’ll bring back
photographs that are exciting and alive, even if the subject is a half-
pound sunfish.

Making Photos Look Good

An angler posing with a big fish can make a terrific or terrible shot. The
next time you take a picture of a friend with a fish, pay attention to the
following details. The result will be a better photo.

• Take a picture when the fish is still alive – best of all, moments after it
is landed. That’s when the colors are brightest, the fins flare the most and
the fish looks most vigorous. Dip the fish in water to wash off dirt, blood
or weeds.

• Choose the background carefully. Sky, water or undeveloped shoreline
looks better than a back yard, the inside of a tackle shop, the back of a
pickup or a cluttered boat.

• Push back your subject’s hat and take off sunglasses to keep shadows
from hiding the face.

• Don’t let your subject’s hands obscure the fish, especially its head.

• Get a shot with the lure in the fish’s mouth, but don’t let the lure cover
the eyes.

• Cover up a torn or stained shirt with another shirt or jacket, especially
one with a bright color.

• Photograph a single good-looking fish rather than a big stringer. Don’t
throw a pile of fish on the ground and have your subject stand behind it.

Catch The Action

Try shooting action photos. Keep the camera loaded, set for the
prevailing light and close at hand. Use a wide-angle lens to get the anger
and the fish in the frame and in focus. Set the shutter speed at 1/500
second to stop the action. With an auto-focus camera, remember to keep
whatever you want in focus in the center of the frame.

Try Natural Poses

Try poses that don’t look like poses. Do something with the fish. Have
your partner pretend to land the fish, unhook it, lift it or release it. Photos
like this have more life than the usual “meat” shot.

Play The Angles

Move higher or lower than your subject to make shots more interesting.
Get below the level of the fish and shoot upward to emphasize the fish’s
size and eliminate boat clutter from a shot. On a stream, shoot down
from a bank or bridge to get a good view of your friend as well as the
surroundings.

Low-Light Advantage

Shoot in the morning or evening, when the sun is low, for the warmest,
richest light. Good lights makes a photo look vivid. The same shot at
midday would have deep shadows and contrasting bright spots.

Midday glare presents another problem: the bright light can overpower all
the detail of a fish. Silvery fish such as trout and salmon are more likely
to “burn out” by reflecting too much light. If you must shoot in bright
light, turn the fish slightly until you get the best coloration and detail

Take Lots Of Photos

Don’t spare the film. Compared to gas, tackle and other expenses, film is
cheap. If you like the looks of a shot, take extras to compensate for those
that are inevitably ruined by movement or awkward expressions. To make
sure the exposure is correct, “bracket” your photos, the way professional
photographers do. For example, if you set your shutter speed at 1/250
second and your light meter says f8, try a second shot at f5.6, and a third
at f11. That way you’re sure one will have the proper expression.

Fill The Frame

Turn your camera and take some “verticals” as well as the usual
“horizontals.” By matching your format to the shape of your subject, you
can fill the frame with the fish and angler and eliminate the dead space.
The result: more interesting photos with greater impact.

Fill Flash For Flat Photos

If your subject is backlit, use “fill flash” to eliminate shadows and make
your photo “pop.”

Fill flash works best with a variable-power flash unit. With the camera in
manual mode, set your shutter speed to synchronize with the flash,
usually 1/60 second. Then, set the aperture (f-stop) according to the
camera’s light meter.

Adjust your flash unit according to the aperture setting of your camera
and the distance to the subject. Then turn down the power dial by one f-
stop. Otherwise the flash will “burn out” your subject. Shoot one or two
shots. For insurance, lower your power setting by one f-stop and shoot
again.

You can’t use fill flash with some automatic cameras because the flash
won’t fire in bright light. Other automatics have fill flash buttons, so you
can use the flash anytime.

Wide Angles Add Interest

A short, wide-angle lens (a 24mm or 28mm) makes objects in the
foreground of your photo look bigger while shrinking objects in the
background. As a result, a wide-angle image is often more interesting
than a similar picture taken with a “normal” lens. Wide-angle (fisheye)
lenses also let you keep both foreground and background objects in
focus in the same photograph.

Cheap Lens Protection

A polarizing filter, like polarized sunglasses, cuts glare from water and
other objects. You can adjust the filter for greater or less polarization. A
filter also serves to protect the more expensive camera lens. A “skylight”
or UV-haze filter gives protection without noticeably affecting the photo.

Adjust For Bright Snow

Dazzling white backgrounds, such as new-fallen snow or big rapids,
often fool photographers. For example, a picture of an ice fisherman on a
sunny day is likely to be badly underexposed. The ice and snow will
appear light gray, and the angler’s face will be a dark shadow.

That happens because the camera’s light meter reads and adjusts for the
intense light of the background rather than the light coming off the
subject’s face. Here are two ways to remedy the problem.

If you’re using a camera that can be operated in a manual mode, move
closer to your subject and set the exposure by metering off the person’s
face. Step back and take the photo. The angler’s face will be properly
exposed. The snow will be bright and white and lack detail, but no one
will care about that.

Some automatic cameras without a fully manual mode can be set to
overexpose by up to two full stops, which will correct for snow or white
water in the background. Some fully automatic cameras can be “fooled”
by setting them to meter for a slower film. But many cameras read the
film speed electronically off the film canister and can’t be adjusted to
compensate for these conditions.

Preserve The Day

There’s more to fishing than fish, and there’s more to fishing
photography than pictures of fish. Try photographing your surroundings
and the entire fishing experience. Little things like running the boat,
changing lures or casting can make shots that are every bit as interesting
as a picture of a trophy.

Keep Film Safe

Beginning Photographers don’t realize that film can be easily damaged.
Here are a couple of tips to keep your film in good shape.

Water, heat and light all damage film. Keep unexposed and exposed film
in the plastic canisters it comes in to help protect it. On a hot day, keep
the containers in your cooler.

Radiation, such as the X-rays used in airport luggage –scanning
equipment, can damage film. The machines are billed as “film safe” and
may not damage ordinary film the first time through; but X-ray damage is
cumulative, building up with each additional exposure. If your film is
checked several times before it is developed, the pictures are likely to
have streaks or lines in them, or they may be fogged. “Fast,” light-
sensitive film (ASA above 400) is more easily damaged than other film. If
you’re traveling with light-sensitive film or expect to pass though security
checks several times, ask the agent to inspect the film by hand rather
than pass it through the X-ray machine.

For more tips, as well as excellent outdoors-related discussion, be sure
to visit www.baitshopboyz.com!

21 December 2005

________________________

Quick Tip For The Week

Anyone with questions or tips regarding hunting, shooting or fishing is
encouraged to submit them by mail to BCJ in care of Ronald Fischer; they
can also be emailed to bcj_fischer@yahoo.com.

Selected tips or answers to selected questions will be posted when
possible.

Broadhead Evaluations
By Bryce Corris

I compared my Montecs with a friend’s Crimson Talon Raptor
expandables and some Wal-Mart special cheapies that he had from last
year. Results are as follows:

Montecs:

• Loudest, loud wind noise
• Most accurate groups
• Impact compared to field points, dead on vertical but 3/4" per 10 yards
to the right. Tried tuning rest to counteract but never could, still only 3"
right at 40 yards so it is tolerable.
• Stayed razor sharp after over a dozen hits on target

Crimson Talon Raptors:

• Second loudest
• Third most accurate
• Impact was dead on horizontal, but slightly higher
• Seemed to get duller with every shot, but still stayed plenty sharp to
slice paper
• One expandable blade broke off on 3rd hit

“El Cheapos”

• Quietest of the 3
• Accuracy was dead on with field points
• Very dull very fast
• Would be ok in a pinch but would need to be watched and frequently
re-sharpened.
Maybe not the most informative trial, but gives an idea of what I found.
The only ones I actually weighed were my Montecs; 2 were 103.6, one
was 103.7 grains, I was impressed with that. They look very easy to
sharpen; I will actually try to touch them up after today’s shoot.

I was actually quite surprised at how loud the Montecs were. Keep in mind
this was shooting indoors in a high echo environment, so outside it may
not be as noticeable. Actually I am a little worried from the noise factor,
but not that worried that I won't use them.

The building has a 20-yard range, if you stand at the door you can get
30, and 10 yards outside the door yields 40. Not a real safe thing to do
with lots of people around, but it was just a friend and me. When
standing outside, I didn't notice a noise difference, but inside it was very
noticeable. I also noticed that inside, my Hoyt bow was quite loud
compared to his Martin; outside, mine only had a quiet 'tump' while his
was louder.

The cheap Wal-Mart ones were quite useable. They were accurate and
quiet, but they dulled easy. I don't know what brand, but they are just the
$8 ones. If you sharpen them or at least check them before use you
should be fine. I just wouldn't expect a lot of use from them, but you may
be surprised and get several deer from each.

For more tips, as well as excellent outdoors-related discussion, be sure
to visit www.baitshopboyz.com!

4 jan 06

Several weeks ago, I posted an extensive look into caring for your big
game in the field and at the processing table. It logically follows that
there should be a few tips for cooking big game as well; after all, it
wouldn’t do to waste all of that care and effort beforehand, only to have a
poor meal due to mistakes in the kitchen!

Here are some quick tips to make your venison a success:

• Cook at medium-high temperature; hot, but not too hot. If your oil is
smoking, back off a few degrees.

• Leave room between pieces in the pan so that the water that cooks out
of the steaks can evaporate and doesn't 'boil' the meat.

• Sear the juice inside immediately and cook quickly; two or three
minutes on each side is good for “average” steaks, adjust according to
thickness. In general, you do not need to cook as long after turning as
you did before.

• Turn only once and don’t over-cook. Some like to leave their game
steaks slightly rare, and this is a matter of personal taste.

• After turning, some like to add broth, water, sour cream or some other
“sauce,” then turn the burner down and simmer for 15-20 minutes, the
purpose being to tenderize the meat and finish cooking. I have tried this
and have not noticed a difference, but my venison is aged by hanging
before I process it, which results in tender meat. If yours isn’t aged, you
might try this.

• Serve on a hot plate and eat steaks while hot; do not allow them to cool.



Edited by TasunkaWitko

18 jan 06

-------------------------------

Anyone who has fished rivers has probably gotten snagged and lost a lot
of tackle. The snaggy bottoms of good holes can gobble up a lot of
sinkers, hooks, walleye rigs and who-knows-what-else. Here’s a way to
cut your losses by making your own slip-sinkers out of otherwise
worthless scrap:

Tie a heavy washer, bolt, nut or other scrap to a 12-inch piece of mono.
Attach a barrel swivel to the other end. This is your “junkyard dropper.”
Slip the line from your rod through the free end of the swivel and tie it to
a second barrel swivel run a leader and hook off the second swivel. Your
junkyard dropper should be made of line that is lighter than your main
line; that way, if the scrap hangs up, the dropper will break, sparing the
rest of the rig.     

01 feb 06

-----------------------------

Due to a couple of emails asking for clarification on last week’s tip, I’ve
got a couple of pictures here which will hopefully explain better than
words.

Modifying the jointed-minnow plug:

To rig a worm or creature Texas-style:

1. Insert the point of the hook into the head end.

2. Push the hook about 1/2 inch into the head, then out the side.

3. Continue pushing the hook through the worm, leaving only the eye
protruding.

4. Twist the hook one-half turn.

5. Push the hook into the worm until the point almost penetrates the
opposite side.

The rigged worm should hang straight with no kinks or twists.

Southern bass fishermen use a Texas-rigged worm to catch large-mouth
bass with tremendous success. It is safe to say that this is among the
most popular, if not the most popular rig for fishing a plastic worm.

Up here in north central Montana, the bass fishing is limited, but the
Texas-rigged worm can still be useful in applications such as this lure
modification. It might also be worth it to try a salamander or other
creature rigged Texas-style when fishing for northern pike or walleye.
     

Edited by TasunkaWitko