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Topic: lubing mold for first-time use Posted: 21 August 2003 at 09:37
according to lee, their molds need to be lubed (pivots, sprue plate, etc.) prior to first-time use. they recommend using alox beezwax lube. i am ASSUMING that this is different than the brown stuff that you can get in bottles for tumble lubing? the beeswax part of the name implies that it comes in a stick. i am not sure if i can get the stick anywhere in this 2-horse town!
if lee IS referring to the stick, and IF it is unavailable in this town, what are some alternate sources for lubing the mold?
TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen
Joined: 27 July 2003
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Posted: 21 August 2003 at 10:34
Ron--
Even those of us in the retail paradise of larger California cities have tough times finding bullet casting equipment. Usually, a gun shop that sells molds or other casting equipment stocks the hollow-stick Alox 2138/beeswax "lube tubes". Lee makes such stuff themselves, and I use it when I can't find Javelina lube of the same description.
Most of us in the casting game long ago resigned ourselves to the mail-order gig to get the stuff we need. Midway, Mid-South, Graf's, and most other online/mail-based shooting outlets stock the casting goodies in some depth.
It isn't critical, Tas, just be real careful to keep the lube out of the mold's cavities. I've used lithium grease, moly powder, moly and graphite spray, and the liquid alox that comes with their boolit sizers.
Clean the mold with a toothbrush and warm water (and maybe a bit of rubbing alcohol to be sure all the machine oil is removed). Make sure the sprue plate swings easily and the handle hinge isn't too tight or too loose so the mold works like you want it to. If you use a boolit lube for the moving parts, heat the mold first so the lube will flow where you want it to go (and be careful, a little dab'll do ya). If you use "regular" hi-temp lubes, apply them cold and let them dry before heating the mold. Operate the mold several times to make sure the lube is where it needs to be.
Joined: 13 June 2003
Location: United States
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Points: 2212
Posted: 21 August 2003 at 10:38
Mail order most casting stuff here too. What you can find at retail is usually over priced and very poor selection.
DON'T use the liquid alox, you will have a nasty mess on your hands. Not sure if you could get away with straight wax or not. If you don't lube, or have inadequate lube, your mold will be junk pretty quick.
"...A moral compass needs a butt end.Whatever direction France is pointing-towards collaboration with Nazis, accomodation with communists,...we can go the other way with a quiet conscience"-O'Rourke
i've got some of the liquid alox, but for the stick it looks like i'd better order it or see if i can find some around town. i don't have any moly powder or lithium grease, so it looks like the alox/a1 stick is the ay to go.
i went to clean outt he mold cavities of the three BRAND NEW molds, and found that one is missing a pin or hinge or something, so that half the mold will not stay on the handle. just got back from sending it back to lee, so i will hopefully be all set to prep them all by the time the repaired/replaced mold returns.
will keep you updated, and i am sure i will keep having questions!
TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen
Joined: 20 August 2003
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4
Posted: 21 August 2003 at 20:55
Tasunka, I lube all my moulds with just plain wax, get the mould hot then touch a small piece of wax against the alignment pins/sprue plate pivot/hinge pins and it'll melt and flow. You can tell when a lee mould needs lubin again cause it'll not realign correctly, I hafta relube about every 30-40 bullets. I had one of my lee moulds drop it's hinge pin like yours, had to peen the hole opening to keep the pin in place...Gary D.
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