I need some help.

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   Zamble;
Just some follow-up info.
LC usually means Lake City brass.  That brass is from the Lake City U.S. Military manufacturing plant.  See if it doesn't have a headstamp of a circle with a cross through it.  Looks kinda like a personal pan pizza cut into four slices.  That is the designator for NATO spec brass.  In other words military brass.  
Military brass has crimped in primers.  They can be a bitch to punch out, breaking decapping pins all the time.  Then, you really should swage the primer cup to make putting a new primer in easy & safe.  
Consequently, I'd suggest that you forego the pleasures of using the LC brass & standardize on the Winchester, since that's what you've got the most of anyway.
Keep a couple of examples of each  kind for your budding brass collection.  Take a tubing cutter & section an LC and an RP.  Use a micrometer & measure wall thicknesses.  Note the interior construction around the primer pocket.  All kinds of things to learn & file in the old bean.
900F

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CB900F Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator Honor, Integrity Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Eritrea Status: Offline Points: 8857	Posted: 22 September 2004 at 04:43
	Zamble; Just some follow-up info. LC usually means Lake City brass. That brass is from the Lake City U.S. Military manufacturing plant. See if it doesn't have a headstamp of a circle with a cross through it. Looks kinda like a personal pan pizza cut into four slices. That is the designator for NATO spec brass. In other words military brass. Military brass has crimped in primers. They can be a bitch to punch out, breaking decapping pins all the time. Then, you really should swage the primer cup to make putting a new primer in easy & safe. Consequently, I'd suggest that you forego the pleasures of using the LC brass & standardize on the Winchester, since that's what you've got the most of anyway. Keep a couple of examples of each kind for your budding brass collection. Take a tubing cutter & section an LC and an RP. Use a micrometer & measure wall thicknesses. Note the interior construction around the primer pocket. All kinds of things to learn & file in the old bean. 900F
	Birth certificate!? He don't need no steenkink birth certificate!!

Gunrunner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List .416 Rigby Forest Grump Joined: 05 July 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1970	Posted: 22 September 2004 at 06:54
	Hey there Z, I was going to mention about the LC primer pockets too. I'd stash away those 400 pieces and maybe sometime down the road you'll want to try them. For now the WCC should work fine. Since your using a semi-auto you may experience some cycling problems. This might happen with your starting loads, the ones with the least amount of powder. This has happened to me with one semi. As I loaded up a bit more powder according to the manual the rifle functioned fine. Is your Mini 14 a ranch version, and do you have a scope on it. What's the rifling twist? Older ones had a 1 in 12", some had a 1 in 7" and the one I have is 1 in 9". Good luck and don't be afraid to ask more.
	Somebody better call the Secret Service. Let 'em know there's an illegal alien in the White House...and it ain't the cook!!

Zamblebee Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List .22 LongRifle Joined: 20 September 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6	Posted: 22 September 2004 at 14:55
	Thx for all the help and replies. I have a Mini-14 Ranch. I am not sure of the twist. I bought it new about 3years ago, if that helps. I have a Simmons Variable Scope on it. I will have to look at the Power and magnification. Right now I am talking to a guy on ebay who is kinda local to me. He is selling an Estate. He has a bunch of powder and primers he can't ship. Maybe I can get a good deal.... Thanks, Steve