we’re looking for a few good puppies.....

i'm not a bird hunter (yet), so i am clueless, but am looking forward to learning, especially now that i have an honest-to-goodness gun dog! over the next couple of years, i would like to slowly get her trained to be the best damned bird dog (except for YOURS, of course) that ever lived.

let's discuss some methods for this, starting with very young pups and progressing through the growth and fist couple of years till we've got a full-fledged retriever!

Welcome aboard, Brushbuster - You pretty much nailed it on the head. In my not so humble opinion, if you can keep a pup with you 24/7, starting at the age of 48-49 days, for two months straight, your training is pretty much done. Don't let them go past 49 days, this is an extremely important stage in development, and they are imprinting at thier most receptive period.

In this time, they will learn to heel, and to watch you for indications of which direction you will move next, along with a lot of other small things you don't even realize the dog is learning. They will lay at your feet, and watch your face to see if there is a command coming. The only off leash freedom I ever allow is inside of the cabin.

In this time, never let the pup off of a control line. Make this the distance you will want the pup to hunt from you in the future. This really imprints the distance in a pup. And if you are doing your part, they will still get plenty exercise.

For walking the dog on a leash, get a good sturdy 3/4 - 1 inch leather lead, with a good strong swivel. It should have a strong loop in the end. If the dog will be allowed to run free at some period on your property, walk the dog around the perimeter every day, letting it mark the territory, and it is a good idea if you do it, too. It reinforces the territorial instincts, and you as the alpha animal. Walk the dog along roads with traffic, and make it aware of the passing vehicles. Always veer yourself and the dog away from the road in a distinct way. This lets them know there is danger on the road, and may save a dog for you.

Never allow it to take your, or anyone elses' hand in thier mouth in play. Play "fetch" with the pup on the line. Never yell at the pup. Always keep your voice low. Never allow others to give commands in this period.

I've used this type initial training on three dogs over the years, and at the end of the two month period, they could read my mind, knew wheter I wanted them left, right, further, or closer. My old Chesapeake, I could show her a deer antler in the spring, and she would round up every one in the area and leave them on the deck. She was great for both waterfowl, and upland game. She would also blood trail big game for me. Never any special training for any of this, she just recognised me as the master, and wanted to do everything she could to please. Males take a bit longer than a bitch for the imprint, but it works fully as well.

Most important, is consistant. Quite frankly, aside from socializing a dog around other people, I don't want them to have much contact with any other person in the imprint stage of development. Kids, or an overindulgent mate can undo lots of gains in short order. Once they pass the age of 3 1/2 months, things become more difficult in the training, as they are beginning to find some independance of thier own. With the basic bonding in place with little outside influence, training can be quite easy.

Your right Tikkabuck, My dogs hate water. But they are great on upland birds. I dont hunt water fowl so I guess its what you use them for. Another thing I like about pointers is they dont stay in too close. I feel like they cover more ground when they are out 75 to 100 yards. If a dog will hold point that is not too far.

Ducks unlimited has a thang where they release 3 pheasants and you are timed and get a point for each minute it takes to get the birds and 10 points for each shot fired. Lowest score wins. Its fun and everyone wins something. Alot of hats and coffee cups but their are some good prizes too.

Wing master

thanks for the replies so far! as you guys know, my puppy didn't make it, but i am considering getting another one. when i do, i'll be asking some follow-up questions based on what i've learned here.

thanks!

ron

I can see there are a lot of dog trainers on this sight! Ummmmm OK but I know there is a heck of a lot more to training a bird dog to it's potential than teaching it to come, sit and fetch.

Now that may work of some dogs that aren't real up to getting after birds in the wild of a 1000 acre field. Hunt close you say, well I don't intend to be in the 1000 acre field after the sun goes down.

I like my dogs to get after it, mostly 150 to 200 yards away on such terrain and acreage. We will get our exercise in going to their point.

We have German Shorthair Pointers, that are breed to run. They all have top breeding on their papers too. However training consistent is what makes a bird dog and not going about it to young. We have a couple of pups right now that are 6 and 9 months old. They come and love you to death, but they are not ready for any serious training and we will NOT introduce them to the gun until they are at least a 15 months old. I believe in letting them get bonded to us and just be our pups.

Mr. Administrator.......if your looking for GSP's (German Shorthair Pups) I can perhaps help you out in that respect.

I have a friend who has a litter out of a Field Champion bitch, and the Sire is the 2003 National Field Champion "Magnums Touch Of Gold" He has 3 pups left and they are $750 dollars a piece. It don't get any better than this on the breeding side of things. He also has another litter do anytime out of a sire that will soon be a Field champion. These pups are around $400 dollars a piece.