AR Triggers

For two stage. ALG makes a decent trigger for under $50 QMS or $70 ACT for better one. Geissele Hi-Speed Match Rifle Trigger is top of line, runs about $300. Timmy and couple others fall in between. Rock river NM runs $120 and is pretty good.

If you like single stage, JP triggers are pretty nice and run just under $200, breaks like thin glass rod.

When I first got my M&P-10 I went through the same thing. Polished
everything, lighter springs - all the things that make a AR-15 trigger
better. I was able to improve it quite a bit except it wouldn't light
off mil spec ammo. The primers are too hard for the light springs.

Most of the aftermarket trigger manufacturers have a different models
for AR-10's. I have lots of experience with AR-15 triggers. Like
RobMT I like Timney and Geissele but have not tried them in the 10.

The single best thing you can do for the $$ is a grip screw trigger
adjuster. It takes out most of the creep and lightens the pull. Easy to
install but takes a little patience to adjust properly. You can actually
adjust out all of the creep and get the pull to < 3# but the trigger won't
reset. So you have to keep backing it off until it functions reliably.
I've used both NicTaylor00 and Joe Bob models and they both work.
Remember to loc-title and they'll work fine. I have at least six of them.

My M&P-10 is at a crisp 5.5#.

DD

Edited by deaddog

Replacing the springs, will help with pull weight, for AR10 models, you want at least red hammer spring, grey is slightly heavier JP

JP trigger has adjustments for sear engagement and over travel, be aware that both JP and adjustment screw, to reduce sear engagement, require filing safety flat and disconnector, for full adjustment. They also can cause doubling, if you're not careful and reduce sear engagement too far.

Problems occur with the grip screw adjuster when it is set too light.
When it's cranked down all the way it will be just like a $230 Geissele
but will only function as a single shot. Once you feel that it's hard to go
back. You just have to justify the $200 +/- for a real trigger vs $10-15 for
the screw.

DD

Edited by deaddog

Giselle for two stage and JP for target.....nuf said.

After the trial and error part of the initial adjustment I've learned to
screw the small set screw in all the way and count the revolutions. Just
like the jets on an old carburetor. Then you take it all the way out and
apply the loc-tite. Screw it all the way in again and back it out the
amount you counted.

I ended up with a lighter power trigger spring and an extra power Wolff
hammer spring. As I mentioned before if you only shoot factory or hand
loads you'll be fine with factory or lighter power springs. I have a couple
tins of Australian mil surp ammo with hard primers that I sometimes
shoot. Without the heavy spring it would only light 3 out of 5.


DD