Going to take the plunge....

yep, that is right NH.

I've seen hunters stop on a hard road and shoot a dozen arrow trying to hit a herd of deer that were 200+ yards back in a field.  just irresponsible.

But the most wounds are from people that can't shoot and they gut shoot deer at reasonable ranges.  I strongly favor range tests for all archers.  compound bows really brought the level of competency down from the 'olde days'.  Funny thing is that the compound weenies are now against crossbows as being too easy/sissy.  Seeing the sport over 50 years, I'd outlaw compounds and legalize x-bows.  Just my opinion.

I don't want to cut into your bow practice.  But this is the most fantastic time of the year if you are a bow hunter...Do you pre-season scouting now.

Sure the snow and cold changes deer patterns.  but you can locate large herd areas. and you will find that deer walk in the same pathways  any time they are in a given area...familiar steps.  so even though the deer may be spending time now in the bottoms, out of the cold, when they do occasionally go along a ridge, they will be in their old tracks.

I never stop scouting deer, year round, but the snow prints are just fantastic to study.  You can see precisely where deer enter and leave thickets.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I am really excited to get into the sport. I am going to make a trip to Walmart tomorrow to get some field tips, a target and such, so I can start shooting at my house. There is also supposedly an indoor league in the area, so I will probably sign up for that too just to get more practice in.

I want to get my hands on some old Fred Bear movies. I have seen some short clips and such and they are pretty incredible. I also picked up a book by Howard Hill.

Bowhunting is definitely going to be a change of pace,but I have developed some patience over the past couple years, so I can handle the treestand aspect of it. I am pretty pumped though since I will be able to go hunting a lot more, since I can go after work in September and October before it gets too close to the winter solstice to still have daylight when I get out of work. I have a few spots in mind and people to talk to about getting a variety of hunting spots, so that is going to be a lot of fun scouting and planning.

Lots of good advise DD.

I've been archery hunting close to 50 years now, and killed deer with long bow, semi-recurve, recurve, compound and crossbows.

Like many sports (contrary to what we think), equipment is very secondary in importance.  Practice, practice are really the main thing.  and the only thing that will make you a sucessful archer.

Too many archery hunters these days that just can't shoot, and they wound a ton of deer.  I find a few rotting archery kills every year.

When you start breaking arrows by hitting one on a susequent shot (maybe even a Robin Hood), then you will be ready.  It is easy to talk equipment, but don't believe anything is going to make you a good shot except practice.

Few people today can golf like A. Palmer did in 1960!  If I took the golf club he used in 1960 to a golf course, without people knowing it they would say it was impossible to shoot a decent round of golf with those clubs.  Except for safety, equipment doesn't matter.

Try to watch some film on 'Uncle' Fred Bear or Howard Hill shooting the 1950s equipment!

Over the past 40+ yrs I have had a Ben Pearson & Bear recurve, 1 PSE 2 pully compounds and currently a Hoyt compound ( I like the Hoyt)...at least 16yrs old....& 3 selfbows I have made myself....always have used Easton aluminum arrows....but carbons are the current hot items I guess.....you already made a "buy" so go with it to see how you like it & the sport...You can always go different if you feel the need....
Good Hunting!

Hah, to think I started looking at bows some 6 years ago. Well, I finally bought one. A 6 year old or so Hoyt Vortec LH. I got it all set up with a rest, sights, quiver, arrows, broadheads, etc for $250 from a guy I know. I almost bought a brand new bow back in November, but money has been too tight for that. I need to get a decent target, some field tips, and some practice. Maybe I can go chase turkeys in the spring!

so how did the stand hunting work for you NH Hunter

One thing you could do, especially with the time of year, is look around for closeouts of last years models, but don't get it just because its cheap, if it doesn't fit you'll never shoot it up to your full potential. I got my hoyt damn near half price this way. I'd recommend going with cheap carbons to start. If you start with aluminums and do any 'testing,' you will bend arrows, carbons are fairly resiliant and strong. They either break or they don't. You can usually find packs of easton and others for $20 per 6, not a bad way to start and even stay with if you want. I personally haven't noticed any difference in accuracy betwenn these and the arrows that are $40, or higher, per 6. Also, if you plan on doing volume shooting I would stay away from whisker bisquits, they are nice but they tear up your fletching pretty fast. Any good rest will hold your arrow just fine even with a heavy cant, I use a boodoodle, I didn't like it at first but once I got used to it I love it. I still haven't gone all out on accessories, but I'm cheap. I'll stay quiet as to my favorite brand, you might be able to guess it though. 

Before you pick broad heads, you will need to learn to shoot!

!st.  Don't buy the bow on the internet.  Go to the local archery shop.  Ask their advise.  Try lots of bows.  Look at used equipment.  Listen lots and ask only 4 questions (I know that will be tough).  Don't buy anything the first trip to the shop.  Think on it and ask us any follow-up questions. 

Ultmately you need to buy a bow that "feel" good to you after having shot a little.

I know you could save a few bucks by purchasing on the internet.  But the pro shop will then charge you to adjust the bow you bought from thei competition.  Give the guys at the pro shop your money....they are going to help you, and deserve it.  Also if you buy from them and you want to change, most shops will let you trade-up at a reasonable price.

I don't know how big you are but the 50/60# class compound bow may not be right for you.

Like we always say with rifles:  "The velocity doesn't matter, accuracy does".  It is even more important with bows......the best bow is the one that groups best for you.  Arrow velocity is greatly over rated.  The deer I killed last friday night didn't know the arrow speed.  A 1 1/4 inch broadhead just went thru her heart.  300 fps or 225 fps it didn't matter.

Just thoughts, be glad to help as you get started.

BEAR

   Just in case it does last more than 2 days,go shoot a Browning bow before you buy one and then compare it to a real bow that your not paying for the name. Every Browning I have ever shot is slow  slow  slow,don't care what the ads say.