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Sizing

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Wing master View Drop Down
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AKA StraightShooter

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wing master Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Sizing
    Posted: 03 June 2017 at 07:06
Do you full length or neck size your cases when you
reload.

I'm sure this subject has been beaten to death, but I am
in a quest for the perfect reload.

My goal in sizing brass has always been to bump the
shoulder back somewhere between .001 to .002.

Just wondering if it would be better to neck size only.

Wing master
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deaddog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deaddog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2017 at 08:11


I only neck size straight walled cases.


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d4570 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote d4570 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2017 at 10:15
If you only have one gun in the spcific caliber neck works out well. My 22/250 and the D-I-L's dad's 22/250 are a smidge different . So gota full size, we have 4 243s so we full length size. the 6mm, 35 Whelen, and 338/378 we just neck size till they wont let the bolt cloze then full size hem back to normal,
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RobertMT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RobertMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2017 at 12:08
If you're setting up die to only bump shoulder back .001" or two, you'll not gain much or any, by neck sizing only.

If you want the best fitting and straightest reloads possible, you want to invest in FL bushing die, set to bump shoulder .001-.002" and bushing that gives you .002-.003" neck tension. Brand of your choice, RCBS and Redding both make different grades, you don't really need $300 die set.

Bullets seated with match type bullet seating dies, run the truest, you don't really need the micrometer adjustment, it just adds cost, for little time savings.

You can add turned necks, annealing and sorting by volume, if you want even more precision.

With quality brass, you can get almost as good of results, without turning necks, by using FL bushing die.

I would start with Type s die and bushing of suggested size, I recommend ordering bushing suggested -.001" and second one -.002", saves on shipping, that way plus giving you a choice.

http://redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/140-bushi ng-selection

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007677132/6half x55-swedish-type-s-full-size-bushing-die has decent price and shipping.

Steel is few bucks cheaper, titanium is slicker. You'll probably need one sized thou or two larger.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007673284/point 284-steel-neck-sizing-bushing
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007676284/point 284-titanium-nitride-neck-sizing-bushing

http://redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/183-quick starttype-s
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MtElkHunter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MtElkHunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2017 at 08:08
I have used both and both have their place. I think neck sizing is more accurate and works the brass less, however, I don't use it very much anymore because there are too many things that can go wrong with neck sized cases. The main issue I have with neck sized cases is if done correctly so that they barely fit the chamber they are too prone to jams. Any dirt, power fouling, or even a little dust on the case can cause a jam. Even if you go on an extended shoot and shoot to much without cleaning then you can get a jam. Now days I value reliability more than the little bit more accurate reload and case life you get with neck sized cases, so I full length resize everything now.
SW Montana
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