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Moose

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BEAR View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 February 2017 at 04:22
Just put in for 10 chances to draw a Maine moose license.
Been doing it for 20+ years. Maybe this year? I've got
to keep up my hope.

But started to think....do I need a dedicated moose
rifle????

Sure my 6.5 would work, but it would be probably my ast
moose hunt.

What rifle/cartridge would you recommend? Remember this
would be Maine not Montana/wyoming/alaska.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote d4570 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 05:02
338/378
Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CB900F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 05:41
BEAR;

C'mon man! You know what you're gonna use & so do I.

900F

P.S. The Montana Fame & Gish sent me a postcard t'other
day saying I'm now legal to put in again in 2017. It's a
mandatory eight year wait between successful draws here,
regardless if you scored a moose or not. I'm not sure
I'm gonna bother, took about 10 years to draw the last
time. But, if I do & draw, it'll be the .338 Winchester
magnum, with 225 grain bullets at around 2850 - 2900 fps.

900F

Edited by CB900F
Birth certificate!? He don't need no steenkink birth certificate!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deaddog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 06:48


.270

Just because.



DD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 07:20
I've got some rifles that would work OK...but it could
be an excuse to add to the stable.


270...what is like a fly swatter, me thinks.


338/378 I can afford the amount of powder to load 20 of
those.

Maine moose are close, you just must   drop them
literally in their track.   thick stuff everywhere, and
lots of the thick stuff is water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MtElkHunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 07:52
Moose are not hard to kill but they don't have any regard to knock down power. Any reasonable size gun will work just fine. It may take them a minute or two to realize they are dead and drop over but that's just moose. It would be fun to hunt one with a 6.5.
SW Montana
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RobertMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 10:50
Since you already have 6.3x62, the only other one I could suggest is D's favorite 45-70, but in all weather, with red dot or low power scope, would work good for hogs and boat gun too.
45-70
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote d4570 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 11:42
This is a 45/70
45/70
Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 11:42
9,3x62 would work. Was thinking of a 45-70, maybe a
Marlin.

Anyone making T/C barrels in 50 S&W??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RobertMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 12:45
No this is 45-70 but not very handy for moose.

Friend has been waiting 20 months for Quigley, way out of my price range.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deaddog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 13:03

Bighorn Armory makes a 500 S&W lever action.

DD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CB900F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 13:08
BEAR;

I just did some foolin' with a ballistic calculator using
a 9.3 X 62 286 grain bullet at a muzzle velocity of 2300
fps.

Muzzle energy is (rounded) 3380 ft. lbs.
100 yards is        "      2800 "   "    2100 fps
200 yards is        "      2300 "   "    1900 fps
300 yards is        "      1890 "   "    1700 fps

Sighted in 2" high at 100 yards, at 200 you're minus 1" &
at 300 minus 5 inches.

From your description, I strongly doubt you'd be taking
any shots over 300 yards. Most I'd think would be under
150 yards. The data says that the 9.3 is in no way
marginal. As an added bonus, that .45-70 has a 26"
barrel, not what you want in tight woods/swamp. The
fullstock shines there, but you'd have to do some serious
prep work for the wet conditions.

900F
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 14:05
"...prep work for the wet conditions."    ???????????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CB900F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 14:28
BEAR;

Yup, take the barreled action out of the stock. Make
sure the stock is sealed inside & out. Wax the stock,
oil the metal, there are several good products that will
protect the wood from swelling & the metal from rusting.

I know RIG brand oil & grease is a popular & well
regarded product for metal protection. Several people
swear by Renaissance wax for the wood, though I wouldn't
be the least surprised if there aren't a couple of other
products just as good.

Get the gun wet-proofed & then go sight it in again.
Ready for Maine moose huntin'!

Just an afterthought, but when you've got the action out
of the stock, it'd be a good time to get it pillar
bedded. That way there's no chance of the action screws
getting a little bit tighter & cracking the seal &
allowing moisture in.

900F

Edited by CB900F
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RobertMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 14:30
Originally posted by BEAR BEAR wrote:

9,3x62 would work. Was thinking of a 45-70, maybe a
Marlin.

Anyone making T/C barrels in 50 S&W??


SSK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wing master Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 14:41
I think it's a good excuse to buy a new rifle. I would buy
the rifle now. just in case you draw a tag.

I think it would be cool to kill a moose with a sharps
rifle. A 45-70 or maybe a 45-110.

I don't know anything about black powder cartridge rifles,
but I think it would be cool.

Wing master
I have always considered myself to be quite the bullshitter, But ocasionally it is nice to sit back and listen to a true professional......So, Carry on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samchap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2017 at 14:44
I'll agree that they take a lot of lead before they
realize that something is not right and sometimes take
two well placed rounds into their boilerplate before
deciding to move. They trot off 60-100 yards, stop and
stare then crumple.

Both my sons and their wives have each got a moose and I
have two to my credit. All with 30-06. Two with 180
grain core-lokt and four with 150 grain core-lokt. All
of them were less that 100 yards and all with scopes set
at 4x. Scopes are difficult to use looking into brush
and new growth maples but are what you want in the
choppings. Most Maine moose hunting involves looking at
hours of new choppings going by.

In season one the bulls are easy to call in close. Less
so season two.

If you are going into a chopping you have time to full
load any type of rifle but if you are driving down a
road and one steps out in front of you its better to
have one bullet in your trigger hand, get out, chamber
that one and use the time gained doing that for setting
yourself up for good shot placement. Not good if you are
trying to chamber three bullets,fumble one, watch it
fall to the ground then look up and see the moose
hoofing it into the brush on the other side of the road.
So in your own mind, which weapon do you have that will
allow the fastest/easiest loading and reloading after
the first shot is taken? There is a tremendous amount of
mental activity that takes place getting ready to take
that first shot and your hands and fingers don't always
function as fast an your brain is going. If you have
just a few seconds to settle down the crosshair on where
you want it to be and make the good shot, and you know
it, adding another round in the chamber becomes much
easier. It the moose decides to run, you've got him. If
he stands there looking at you, you've got him. Win,win.

So whichever rifle you have that will allow you to do
the above maneuvering is the one I'd suggest you use
driving the roads.

Sitting and calling in the first season any type of
rifle will work just fine. Unless you get a bad case of
the chills.   
samchap - Waldoboro, ME








Be careful what you decide to not like. Your wife may wear one. Your son may ride one. Your daughter may bring one home. You may have to have one someday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MtElkHunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 February 2017 at 07:51
I have a 500 S&W in a tc prohunter. It is a vicious little shit. It would work great to a couple hundred yards but it takes a little getting use to. I have broken two scopes on it so decided to go to peep sites. The sites should be in the mail tomorrow and hopefully installed this weekend.

Edited by MtElkHunter
SW Montana
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 February 2017 at 11:10
Good info Sam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 February 2017 at 11:11
MtElk, but with that you only need one shot.

And it is quick to load the first one, as Sam
recommended.
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