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Going to take the plunge....

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NH_Hunter View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 January 2005 at 10:39
Well, seeing as i am going to change my hunting tactics this year (try stand hunting) I figure it would be nice to get an extra 2 months of hunting by bow hunting. I am looking at the Browning Tornado LH.  I can get it at a site with 24"-28" adjustable draw length with a 50/60 lb. draw weight. I know spot is going to tell me to get the Whisker Biscuit (i think that is what it is called) arrow rest. I think i am going to get the kit, seeing as it comes with a bunch of stuff. I know where there is an archery proshop, so i am going to go there to get the bow tuned. My main questions are these:

1. What arrows should i get? Carbon, aluminum; Easton, beeman, etc.
2. Expandable or fixed broadheads?
3. How long is it going to take for me to get absolutely addicted and buying new accessories and eventually a new bow?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rob1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 11:30

"3. How long is it going to take for me to get absolutely addicted and buying new accessories and eventually a new bow?"

 I give this current obsession about two days

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tikkabuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 12:14
   Just in case it does last more than 2 days,go shoot a Browning bow before you buy one and then compare it to a real bow that your not paying for the name. Every Browning I have ever shot is slow  slow  slow,don't care what the ads say.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mr mom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 12:38
nh: start out with alunium arrows , till you think your good enough. it will be cheaper for starts. and as far as broadheads go with the fixed. but please start out with field tips. dont be cutting yourself befor you need 2. and for how long befor your hooked??? when you can keep all you arrows on the target and start to call your shots. its something your not going to be good at after 1 or 2 days.. just stick with it....and as far as browning bows, i still shoot mine. the boys all started out with brownings , now they are shooting what ever THEY get... matt is shooting a hoyt and nathan has an matthews and timmy has  darton.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 12:59

Before you pick broad heads, you will need to learn to shoot!

!st.  Don't buy the bow on the internet.  Go to the local archery shop.  Ask their advise.  Try lots of bows.  Look at used equipment.  Listen lots and ask only 4 questions (I know that will be tough).  Don't buy anything the first trip to the shop.  Think on it and ask us any follow-up questions. 

Ultmately you need to buy a bow that "feel" good to you after having shot a little.

I know you could save a few bucks by purchasing on the internet.  But the pro shop will then charge you to adjust the bow you bought from thei competition.  Give the guys at the pro shop your money....they are going to help you, and deserve it.  Also if you buy from them and you want to change, most shops will let you trade-up at a reasonable price.

I don't know how big you are but the 50/60# class compound bow may not be right for you.

Like we always say with rifles:  "The velocity doesn't matter, accuracy does".  It is even more important with bows......the best bow is the one that groups best for you.  Arrow velocity is greatly over rated.  The deer I killed last friday night didn't know the arrow speed.  A 1 1/4 inch broadhead just went thru her heart.  300 fps or 225 fps it didn't matter.

Just thoughts, be glad to help as you get started.

BEAR

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NH_Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 14:25
Well, i found an archery shop that is about 45 minutes to an hour away. It is right across the street from a big gun store . I am going to try and swing down that way sometime this month and take a little looksee.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkcorris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 14:38
One thing you could do, especially with the time of year, is look around for closeouts of last years models, but don't get it just because its cheap, if it doesn't fit you'll never shoot it up to your full potential. I got my hoyt damn near half price this way. I'd recommend going with cheap carbons to start. If you start with aluminums and do any 'testing,' you will bend arrows, carbons are fairly resiliant and strong. They either break or they don't. You can usually find packs of easton and others for $20 per 6, not a bad way to start and even stay with if you want. I personally haven't noticed any difference in accuracy betwenn these and the arrows that are $40, or higher, per 6. Also, if you plan on doing volume shooting I would stay away from whisker bisquits, they are nice but they tear up your fletching pretty fast. Any good rest will hold your arrow just fine even with a heavy cant, I use a boodoodle, I didn't like it at first but once I got used to it I love it. I still haven't gone all out on accessories, but I'm cheap. I'll stay quiet as to my favorite brand, you might be able to guess it though. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedWoolArcher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 July 2005 at 16:47
Just buy a recurve or make a stick bow then you only need a boww and arrow its cheaper and more versatile.    


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yankeebillie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2009 at 04:15
so how did the stand hunting work for you NH Hunter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Muleskinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 January 2010 at 00:48

 I'm finding that a treestand is every bit as important as a bow in these parts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NH_Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2011 at 10:03
Hah, to think I started looking at bows some 6 years ago. Well, I finally bought one. A 6 year old or so Hoyt Vortec LH. I got it all set up with a rest, sights, quiver, arrows, broadheads, etc for $250 from a guy I know. I almost bought a brand new bow back in November, but money has been too tight for that. I need to get a decent target, some field tips, and some practice. Maybe I can go chase turkeys in the spring!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The_Mountaineer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2011 at 13:14

Just heed the above advice and I think you'll be fine.

Hunting bows, to me, are pretty much all the same.  If I were looking to buy new I'd look for somethign fast, short (especially for stand hunting) and light weight.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Irish Bird Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2011 at 14:43
Over the past 40+ yrs I have had a Ben Pearson & Bear recurve, 1 PSE 2 pully compounds and currently a Hoyt compound ( I like the Hoyt)...at least 16yrs old....& 3 selfbows I have made myself....always have used Easton aluminum arrows....but carbons are the current hot items I guess.....you already made a "buy" so go with it to see how you like it & the sport...You can always go different if you feel the need....
Good Hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deaddog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2011 at 18:05

As you noted it's been 6 years since you started your bow quest. If you include the six years prior to that to today the bow race for speed has increased over 100 fps. What do we now have over the indiginus American Indians? Straight arrows for one, that are all nearly the same. Is a new expandable broadhead that much better than a nicely napped piece of chirt? No, both make you bleed alot.

I have two bows that can be cranked to 70#+ but I have them both at 45#. I know my ranges just like the Indians.

Look on a box of .22LR. They say "Dangerous to 1 1/2 miles" You rarely ever hear of people shooting a bow at a deer at over 50 yds.

The question I pose to you is: Would you rather stand tied to a post 150 yds away and have someone shoot a single .22 lr at you or a 100gr broad head launched at 300fps at the same range?

Both can kill you. I have my choice.

(it's not the  arrow)

DD

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2011 at 23:38

Lots of good advise DD.

I've been archery hunting close to 50 years now, and killed deer with long bow, semi-recurve, recurve, compound and crossbows.

Like many sports (contrary to what we think), equipment is very secondary in importance.  Practice, practice are really the main thing.  and the only thing that will make you a sucessful archer.

Too many archery hunters these days that just can't shoot, and they wound a ton of deer.  I find a few rotting archery kills every year.

When you start breaking arrows by hitting one on a susequent shot (maybe even a Robin Hood), then you will be ready.  It is easy to talk equipment, but don't believe anything is going to make you a good shot except practice.

Few people today can golf like A. Palmer did in 1960!  If I took the golf club he used in 1960 to a golf course, without people knowing it they would say it was impossible to shoot a decent round of golf with those clubs.  Except for safety, equipment doesn't matter.

Try to watch some film on 'Uncle' Fred Bear or Howard Hill shooting the 1950s equipment!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Irish Bird Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2011 at 07:00
Those vintage archers of old were "instinct" shooters also, which is pretty much what the longbow brings out in an archer.  A skill pretty much lost to the modern day archer with his current/modern equipment. 

The real key to good archery shooting is as Bear said...lots of practice but then good equipment helps there too.....ie straight arrows as DD said and SHARP broadheads are a must for a good, clean, kill!  So, your practice must also include shooting broadheads as they fly differently then your target point arrows.  Just don't use the practice broadheads for hunting. 

Practical Practice bow shooting means also to practice from your tree stand or ground blind or whatever type of shooting stance you have in the real hunting world..sitting, kneeling etc..not just from your hindlegs at a given distance to a bulleseye or picture target.  Learn your killing distance and don't exceed it. oh, did I mention keep your broadheads really sharp?

Good Hunting!




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NH_Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2011 at 10:17
Thanks for all the tips guys. I am really excited to get into the sport. I am going to make a trip to Walmart tomorrow to get some field tips, a target and such, so I can start shooting at my house. There is also supposedly an indoor league in the area, so I will probably sign up for that too just to get more practice in.

I want to get my hands on some old Fred Bear movies. I have seen some short clips and such and they are pretty incredible. I also picked up a book by Howard Hill.

Bowhunting is definitely going to be a change of pace,but I have developed some patience over the past couple years, so I can handle the treestand aspect of it. I am pretty pumped though since I will be able to go hunting a lot more, since I can go after work in September and October before it gets too close to the winter solstice to still have daylight when I get out of work. I have a few spots in mind and people to talk to about getting a variety of hunting spots, so that is going to be a lot of fun scouting and planning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Irish Bird Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2011 at 10:46
take a peak at YouTube to see if they have any thing on the Fred Bear guy or Howard Hill.....maybe....try this one for starters.....when you get there you will find many more I think.....Good Hunting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBgydeR9I70
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 January 2011 at 01:49

I don't want to cut into your bow practice.  But this is the most fantastic time of the year if you are a bow hunter...Do you pre-season scouting now.

Sure the snow and cold changes deer patterns.  but you can locate large herd areas. and you will find that deer walk in the same pathways  any time they are in a given area...familiar steps.  so even though the deer may be spending time now in the bottoms, out of the cold, when they do occasionally go along a ridge, they will be in their old tracks.

I never stop scouting deer, year round, but the snow prints are just fantastic to study.  You can see precisely where deer enter and leave thickets.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote millirond Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 January 2011 at 02:22
[QUOTE=BEAR]

Too many archery hunters these days that just can't shoot, and they wound a ton of deer.  I find a few rotting archery kills every year.

 

 A lot of the rotting archery kills are also taking shots they shouldn't take. wrong angle, but they get excited to get one close enough for a shot that they take it when they should wait for a better shot.

millirond
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