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Topic ClosedBest Rust Remover

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NH_Hunter View Drop Down
.416 Rigby
.416 Rigby
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aka The Kid

Joined: 13 June 2003
Location: United States
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Points: 3508
Direct Link To This Post Topic: Best Rust Remover
    Posted: 25 June 2003 at 00:28

Hey guys, what is the best way to remove rust from a gun. On the right side of my reciever on my T/C Scout, there is a rust patch. It doest hurt anything, but i just want to know how to take care of it. Actually it is kind of scattered rust in a 2"x1" area. What do you guys use? There is also some rust on the barrel that kind of worries me.

NH_Hunter

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.416 Rigby
.416 Rigby

aka The San Antonio Terminator

Joined: 13 June 2003
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2003 at 05:38

Glad you found a muzzleloader.  Just be sure the next one is a traditional one, ok? (grin)

If you just want to lightly work on the rust, just about any light oil and a rubdown will work fine. I use pillow ticking, because it is a bit coarse (and I use it for patches, so I have some) and wipe the oil around with that. You can also use 0000 steel wool and oil, rubbing just enough to scour the rust. Don't go nuts on it, or you will end up at bare metal.

If you want to remove ALL the rust, along with whatever blueing or browning is on the metal, Naval Jelly, a phosphoric acid rust remover works very well. Remember though, it takes you down to bare metal.

"...A moral compass needs a butt end.Whatever direction France is pointing-towards collaboration with Nazis, accomodation with communists,...we can go the other way with a quiet conscience"-O'Rourke
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NH_Hunter View Drop Down
.416 Rigby
.416 Rigby
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aka The Kid

Joined: 13 June 2003
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Points: 3508
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2003 at 09:01

If i did the naval jelly, could i reblue the thing myself for not too much money?

I figure it could use a little bit of reblueing, but not enough so as i would want to send it off to a smith.

NH_Hunter

 

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.416 Rigby
.416 Rigby

aka The San Antonio Terminator

Joined: 13 June 2003
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 2212
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2003 at 01:11

You could reblue with cold blue...not the greatest finish, but some of them work well. If you want to finish the entire rifle, the ONLY cold blue, IME, is Oxpho-Blue, available from Brownell's. Not as good as a good hot blue, but adequate for a lot of things.

If you do want to refinish, consider a brown instead of blue. Laural Mountain Forge makes a line of finishes for muzzleloaders, and their browning solution is great stuff. Easy to use, very forgiving of surface prep. It can be boiled after application to change it to a rust blue instead of a brown. It is available from Track of the Wolf.

Both products are fairly inexpensive.

"...A moral compass needs a butt end.Whatever direction France is pointing-towards collaboration with Nazis, accomodation with communists,...we can go the other way with a quiet conscience"-O'Rourke
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.45 COLT View Drop Down
.22 LongRifle
.22 LongRifle


Joined: 11 June 2003
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2003 at 01:23

If you have time and are willing to do a little work on that blue job, a cold rust blue gives a beautiful finish. Thing is, once you start, you can't lose interest and quit. Takes a long time, most of it wait time, but is worth it. For step-by-step directions, go to

http://www.winrest.com

I used to do hot bluing and I get a better finish with the rust method, without tearing my lungs out.

DC



Edited by .45 COLT
Have your musket clean as a whistle, hatchet scoured, sixty rounds powder and ball, and be ready to march at a minute's warning.
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