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Cleaning Firearms 101

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The_Mountaineer View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 September 2007 at 03:44

Yes it can be a loathsome task and not very fun.  Other times, it’s nice just to sit back and admire the firearm and the memories you’ve made with it.  Regardless what kind of love-hate relationship you have with cleaning your guns, the bottom line is that it needs to be done.

 

So, how do you go about doing it the right way?

 

This is the technique I use and find it to work and protect the gun very well.  Even if you’ve been cleaning guns for 20 years, I hope that you’ll learn something as well or if you have something to contribute, feel free to add on!  So let’s get started.

 

Let’s talk about rifles first as that’s what most big game hunters use.  You’ll need to start off with some basic equipment and supplies.  These are what I use:

 

Gun vise or cleaning cradle

Nylon or carbon fiber cleaning rod

Cotton patches cut to the right size

Cotton swabs (Q Tips)

Pipe cleaners

Bronze brushes of correct size – preferably two for each caliber

Cleaning jag

Bore guide (yep, it’s important)

A general all-purpose “washing solvent” like Hoppes #9

A “copper remover” solvent like Sweets Copper Remover

A good protecting oil – Hoppes, Remington and many others work fine

“Action Cleaning Spray” Birchwood Casey & Remington are great

Quart glass jar to wash parts in

Patch catching receptacle (anything that will fit under the end of the barrel, split 2litre bottles work well as you can throw the whole thing away)

Fine steel wool

Cotton rags

Tooth brushes plastic and metal bristles

Dental picks

Wood cleaner like Endust

Rubbing alcohol

 

Let’s say that you’re working with a bolt action rifle.  First thing you want to do is put the rifle in the vise or cradle on your workbench and take out the bolt.  Next, fit the bore guide into the chamber and make sure you have it fit tightly and correctly.  I know a lot of guys don’t use bore guides but believe me, they’re well worth it.  They save time by keeping all the powder and gunk you pull out of your barrel from entering the magazine and breach of your gun, which is usually pretty clean and doesn’t require much cleanup effort.  Not to mention it aligns your rod up with the bore so you don’t damage the barrel’s rifling. 

 

All you do next is to install the proper sized bronze brush, add some “washing” solvent and scrub the bore down.  Some folks use nylon but I don’t think they work very well and may actually get dissolved by some solvents.  Also, the cheap ones have a steel core wire that can supposedly damage the bore.  However, this is really questionable.  I mean just how hard on your bore can you be with a bore brush?  Can you run a brush tipped cleaning rod through your bore at over 2500 fps like the bullets that it fires?  I’m doubting it!  Bronze brushes typically have a bronze core wire that is softer than the steel of the barrel and won’t cause any damage.  Make several passes, at least a dozen all the way up and back – wiping the rod off with a cleaning rag after each pass.  You want to be careful that the end of the rod doesn’t come completely out the end of the barrel.  If your brush comes out of the end of the barrel and you pull back without paying much attention, your rod tip could catch the crown of the barrel and damage it.  This is a common cause of accuracy loss as that is where the barrel’s last bit of rifling influences the bullet’s path.  If it’s nicked or damaged, your bullet is going to leaving the barrel haphazardly as compared to a smooth undamaged crown.  You can purchase a rod stop that blocks the rod from going too far out the barrel, but simply getting the feel for the length of push you need is just fine, or if you’re having problems, a piece of tape can mark the stopping point.  The specific “washing” solvent that you are using will have directions on how long to leave the solvent in the barrel.  READ THE DIRECTIONS.  Some solvents work almost too good as they’ll actually attack the metal of the rifle itself if left in too long.  Once you’ve washed the bore with the solvent, wipe out the barrel using a cleaning jag and patch, pushing it into the split 2 litre bottle “trash can.”  If I’ve got a really dirty bore (rifle shot say, more than 30 or so rounds) I’ll wrap a patch around an old bronze brush, add some more washing solvent and give the barrel several strokes until the patches come out clean enough to my satisfaction. 

 

Next, we remove the copper.  Starting with a dry bore, apply the copper solvent and scrub down the bore using the same process as we did with the washing solvent, abiding by the directions about how long to leave the solution in the bore.  Keep cleaning until you get a clean, copper-free bore.  I’d say 9 out of 10 guns shoot better when they’re at their cleanest or 1-3 shots fouled.  A few, however, are actually better shooting with copper in the bore.  You’ll just have to shoot and experiment to your satisfaction.  Finish up with a dry patch on a jag and push it out the end of the barrel until the bore is clean and dry. 

 

After the barrel is cleaned, I take the stock off the rifle.  I’ll then wash the receiver out with a spray action cleaner.  BE CAREFUL OF YOUR SCOPE.  If the spray contacts the lenses of the scope, it can eat off the protective coatings.  The cleaner can also eat away on rubber seals and plastic caps.  You want to hose the action down, not the scope!  A rag or a “scope coat” can protect the scope in the process, but being careful is the best medicine.  The action cleaner will get into all the little nooks and crannies of the action and saves a lot of time.  Carburetor cleaner was something I used in the past but it leaves an oily residue that I have to mop up from the action later or else it will collect gunk during firing– most action cleaners leave a perfectly clean and dry surface saving you a lot of time and hassle and are well worth it.  I’ll go around the receiver with a cotton swab dampened, not soaked, with some washing solvent and mop up the entire action to get any leftover or stubborn spots.  I pay close attention to the trigger assembly, ejector, safety mechanism and the moving parts to make sure they’re clean and protected using dental picks, pipe cleaners, and whatever else I can find to get into the little nooks and crannies.  Once every year or two, depending on how much shooting I’ve done with the rifle, I’ll completely disassemble the receiver and trigger assembly and do some fine cleaning, just like I’ll do with the bolt for reasons I’ll outline below.  Generally though, I’ll just clean like I’ve described then wipe everything dry and set aside. 

 

We’re nearly finished!  Next I’ll work on the bolt.  Sometimes, usually once every year or two I’ll actually disassemble the bolt down to its most basic components – pins, springs and the whole kit and caboodle.  The reason I suggest people do this at least once, especially after they get a new rifle, or a new-used rifle is that there is often a greasy protectant on the firing pin assembly that can actually hang up and cause a misfire in cold weather.  Might not be a problem until it’s time to shoot at the big trophy buck you’ve been watching all year and that’s usually the time you find out that it needs the firing pin assembly cleaned.  A Menck tool will be necessary for disassembling Remington 700’s, and Ruger 77’s, but not so with a Winchester Model 70.  I’m not going into details on how to disassemble a bolt – you can look it up on the web, a do-it-yourself gun repair book, or have a qualified gunsmith show you how to do it, but you should have it done.  I’ll set these parts in a glass jar overnight sometimes (if the solvent is safe enough to do that) and simply brush them off with the metal and plastic tooth brushes depending on how stubborn some spots are.  I’ll also use the dental picks to scrape the bolt face corners where residue tends to collect.  I pay especially close attention to the extractor – that little hook like thingie that catches the rim of the shell and pulls it out of the chamber.  If this has a buildup of gunk it may not function properly and prevent you from getting another shot, should you need it.  Pipe cleaners are especially good at getting under the extractor and removing residue.  Once everything is clean I’ll simply dry the parts off, add a “light coat” of oil before re-assembling the bolt.  A “light coat of oil” is usually just enough oil to see with the naked eye and 2-3 drops on cotton swabs will work fine for the entire bolt. 

 

I’ll clean the stock last.  Simply use a general all-purpose wood cleaner like Endust and wipe everything.  I’ve seen more than one wood finish and recoil pad ruined by gun cleaning solvents where the owner simply used his gun cleaning rag to wipe off the stock.  These will attack the finishes of many a rifle, not to mention the soft rubber of most recoil pads.  Protect these from solvents and use a proper cleaner.  As far as wood waxes go, use them if you like.  For synthetic stocks, rubbing alcohol works just fine for me and leaves no residue.  Simply wipe on and wipe off.  Most of the time you have nothing to wipe off as the alcohol will evaporate before you can get a towel to dry it off!  Simple and effective.  Stubborn stains on synthetic stocks can be cleaned with probably just about any household cleaner like formula 409, windex, and so on. 

 

This might bring up questions about how animals may smell your gun, the protecting cleaners and oils.  Sure animals can smell the gun cleaning solutions!  However, if you’re letting the wind go from you and your firearm to the animal then chances are he’s going to smell you, your sweaty t-shirt, your boots that walked through gasoline, the lunch you’re packing and whatever other scent you drug along with you.  Scent control is no excuse for neglecting your firearm investment. 

 

You’ve noticed that other than the bolt, we haven’t oiled anything.  If you’re in a salt-water or even just a damp climate, you may consider protecting the naked metal with some sort of metal wax.  Car waxes will work and there are commercial styles out there just for gun metals too I’m sure.  I’ve never used them or needed them but I’d certainly consider them if I were in a tropical environment, freezing rain, or other climates where precipitation is expected to be a constant problem.  If you go with these, add them now to the “bare” metal before adding any oil.

 

Now is the time to oil everything.  A spray oil will give good coverage over large areas though I inevitably wipe everything with a clean oil rag regardless.  You’ll want to oil everything metal – inside and out.  For the exterior of the barrel, I’ll spray a pass or two over the barrel and then wipe it with a clean oil rag.  I’ll do the same for the magazine, action, and other parts of the breach.  For the rifle’s bore, I’ll put on a jag and put 2-4 drops of oil on a clean cotton patch and pass it through the bore.  I’ll then repeat 1 or 2 more times.  You don’t want oil running out of the bore but you do want oil covering the surfaces of it for obvious reasons.

 

Once everything is oiled, I’ll re-install the stock and give it a going over.  I’ll check the cycling of the action, function of the safety and even put a few rounds in the magazine and chamber them and extract them.  Essentially, you want this thing functional and ready to go the next time you pick it up.

 

Last thing is to wipe off the scope.  Use a lens-safe cleaning pen, brush and solution to do this and DO NOT COMPROMISE.  The lenses and their coatings are what you pay for in a quality scope so don’t ruin them with a dumb and cheap alternative like a paper towel and window cleaner, it will cost you big in the long run. 

 

That’s it!  It’s really not all that complicated and the process I just described to you, in it’s entirety usually just takes about an hour or two to complete (including the breaking down of the bolt and receiver).  Without fine cleaning, it usually takes me less than an hour.  I’ll store them in my safe where they’ll be anxiously awaiting to get dirty again!

 

For pistols, muzzleloaders and shotguns, the process is pretty much the exact same thing.  The biggest difference is the types of solvents you must use.  Shotguns I usually clean at least in part with some sort of solvent designed to attack the plastic wadding residue found in all shotgun shells fired.  Muzzleloaders, I’ll use special blackpowder solvent even if I’m shooting Pyrodex.  You’ll probably have to adapt the way you clean the bore as you may not be able to go through the breech and that’s o.k. too so long as you’re careful not to damage the crown or anything else. 

 

The bottom line is that some cleaning is better than no cleaning.  But, improper cleaning can damage your shooting rig.
Paritur pax bello - Peace is obtained by war.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tikkabuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2007 at 04:16
 Only thing I would add is my favorite solavent. Butch's Bore Shine,this stuff is excellent stuff. And some stuff I mix together. Kron Oil (sp?) and Hoppe's. Good for old gunked up used guns that have had a rather un-caring owner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kingpin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2007 at 11:45
I think you pretty well covered it Mountaineer. That's archives worthy for sure....................Kingpin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2007 at 11:46
yep!
TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave Skinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 September 2007 at 17:00
Nice job, Mounts.
I'm not sure about all the oiling and solventizing, but Montana is fairly dry. I suppose if I lived on the coast or Midwest (yes, I've seen that summer fog in Ohio) I would think differently about a wipe-down.
The suggestion to strip down the bolt once a year is a good one. I have mine apart about that often anyway, but have never read anyone suggesting it be done routinely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Moose6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 September 2007 at 02:58

For cleaning I start off with Butch's Bore Shine for my first pass.  I switch to Barnes CR-10 for getting rid of copper for a few passes.  Follow that with Butch's until everything comes out clean.

Instead of gunoil, I use Sheath by Birchwood Casey.  Sheath however isn't made anymore though.  It looks like it's been replaced with a product called BARRICADE.  This is a discription from the website:

BARRICADE Rust Protection protects your firearms from rust. It rapidly drives out moisture from metal pores and deposits a transparent coating which seals the surface with a protective film. Withstands 500 hours in ASTM humidity test and 96 hours in ASTM salt spray test. BARRICADE Rust Protection is also an excellent penetrant for loosening rusty or frozen parts, as well as a good lubricant and an effective bore cleaner. Contains FPR to wipe off corrosive fingerprints on all your firearms.

Sheath (or Barricade) is goooooooood stuff.

Y'all shoot straight!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 September 2007 at 05:55

Good summary Mountaineer.

I hate cleaning chores.  But about 6 years ago I bought a heavy duty folding build table from Auto-Zone.  It is rock solid and has a oil/solvent proof top (about 2x4 foot).  This is now permanent in my gun room with a Midway gun cleaning vise.  I have a plastic dust can under the one end of the table that catches patches as they fall.

Got all the cleaning patches/brushes/screwdrivers/rods out on the table.

Gun cleaning got fun now, since I gat the table and organized all that claning stuff.  I clean every gun immediately when I get home.  In addition, I actually clean every gun I have each year in February when things are dead.   Out of the cabinets, onto the rest, all with country and western music blasting.  Did I mention, my wife goes on vacation in Feb!  why is it women hate the smell of Hoppes????

BEAR

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