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Can you believe it?

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NH_Hunter View Drop Down
.416 Rigby
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aka The Kid

Joined: 13 June 2003
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    Posted: 27 October 2006 at 01:03
I have actually started communicating with a pro shop down in Canterbury NH about getting me setup with a bow. Hoping to zip down there this weekend and talk with the guy about what bow options are available, what he suggests, what accessories, etc. I have been reading as much as I can, and have a little bit of knowledge about what to look for in bows. He is a Martin dealer, and I am really liking the looks of their Bengal. If I end up ordering a bow or anything, I will keep you guys up to date!
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The_Mountaineer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The_Mountaineer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 October 2006 at 02:26

Be careful NH, bowhunting is very addicting!

Long season, earlier and later than most gun seasons here east of the Miss' and liberal bag limits will get you hooked!

For you or anyone considering buying an archery setup I offer the following advice gleaned from my personal experiences:

1.  Carbon vs. aluminum?  Carbon stays straighter at a higher cost and the fella doing the arrow fletching had best be good at it cause vanes and feathers don't like to bond with carbon shafts unless properly prepped.  Myself, I switched to carbon and enjoy they a lot.

2.  Sights?  The fiberoptics definitely give you an advantage.  For years I used the plain ol painted pins and killed lots of critters with it.  But for those lowlight conditions the fiberoptics really shine (har har har)!  Just be sure that the fiberoptic material has enough exposure to light either with a clear encasement or accessory battery powered light (if legal).

3.  Rests?  I really prefer the whisker biscuit style over any other.  For hunting, I don't think you can get a better rest.  Lots of rave and writing about the drop-away rests.  These are great for accuracy but it's been my experience when hunting that an arrow holding setup with the rest is best.  It allows you to keep an arrow knocked on the bow and still allow your bow to be placed in a holder "at the ready"  Many of the drop-aways don't allow this and the arrow will inevitably fall off the rest at just the wrong moment.

4.  Broadheads?  Get the widest cutting ones you can.  Finally, the market is starting to produce some "cut-on-contact" replacement heads.  I'd look at these pretty closely as they are superior in my opinion for anything other than tough bone.  Admittedly, I use some plain ol' Muzzy 125 grain 3 bladers that work well for bone.  Here's a test to teach your archery shop contact.  Have him put some broadheads on arrows and place the arrow "point up" on a stump.  Then, with great care, stretch a game hide over the point and pull it over the broadhead to simulate how the arrow will impact game hide.  The results may surprise you.  Many broadheads with conical points may bend the arrow to the point of breaking.  Others with a knife-like tip will cut through it like butter!

5.  Other stuff?  Stabilizers are good as are some string silencers.  The game trackers that BEAR uses and I used to use are great so long as you make damn sure you don't have any string exposed when moving.  More than once I've spent 40 minutes after dark pulling up tracking string that inadvertantly got caught on brush with me dragging it all the way to the truck!  Release/glove/tab?  Releases work best for me.  Takes a little getting used to but they're much more consistent.  I'd strongly insist you get two of whatever you choose so you don't have to climb down the tree to pick up the one you dropped.  Targets - sight in on conventional targets like The Block but practice on game targets, the difference is amazing.  Rangefinder is a good investment too (use it on your practice range as well as in the field) if you can't afford one, just be sure to mark the ranges from your stand or blind before hand with sticks, leaves, rocks or whatever.  Though not strictly archery, I'd definitely look into some good camo.  Your encounters will usually be well within 50 yards.  An armguard is a wise choice too. 

Lots of other stuff, but those are the basics.

Keep us posted I'll be anxious to see how it works for you!

Paritur pax bello - Peace is obtained by war.
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Hudge View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 October 2006 at 09:13
Mountaineer post some great suggestions. When it comes to braodheads, I am partial to Slick Tricks, not the widest, but dang they are sharp and they hit where my field points do, which is a plus when practicing. I hope to score a new bow soon, as mine is 5 years  old. I'll probably be hunting with it another 2 season s though. If I do deploy,  it now looks like next Sep,. So I'll miss all of hunting season then. Oh well, that's life.

Hudge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 October 2006 at 12:36

Martin are very good bows.  Prior to losing sight in my right eye I used one of their bow to kill lots of game.  Had it about 20 years or more.  I gave it away last year (sorry NH it was a right handed one).

They are not cheap, mine was custom make with special limbs.  the young person I gave it to kill his first archery buck 2 weeks after our first backyard lesson.  They will last a hunting career.

Enjoy and practice...practice.....and practice.

Good luck NH

 

BEAR

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NH_Hunter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NH_Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2006 at 03:02
I just found a place that is only the next town over that carries Hoyt, PSE, Matthews, and maybe Bowtech. Will certainly be a learning experience. I have about 25-30 yards to shoot at my house, but joined a gunclub that also does archery so I can practice out farther. I am going to take it slow, and try to work out to 50 yards, but we will see how it goes. Going to start short. Archery is very new to me, but I am very excited!

Thanks for the tips Mountaineer. I remember Spot recommended the whisker biscuit oh so long ago. Seems pretty popular. As far as sights go, I am going to go with whatever the proshop suggests, within reason. I am going to do this as economically as I can. I have a very limited budget for this kind of stuff.
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deaddog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deaddog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2006 at 05:26
It's fine and good to practice at 50yds but I'd be real careful about shooting a deer at that range. The chance of wounding one is very high. Hang your stand about 2' up a tree and practice sitting from there. Too bad your wrong handed, I have a Browning Tornado I'd let you have for $50

DD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Igbo Foo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2006 at 05:34

DD;

He's not "wrong handed", yer just not in yer right mind. 

Poor boy, he does drivel on about these things he has no control over.  A sure sign of immaturity, that.  But, they do let him actually fly airplanes around the country too, so he's obviously not completely beyond help.  I hope.

 Foo!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2006 at 13:45

NH

practice by shooting 10 arrows at 20 yards each day.  The home 20 yard range will give you more practice and your skills will improve faster than shooting any 50 yard ranges until next year.  It is similar to rifles shooting ranges beyond were you can group isn't the best technique.  AND shooting 50 yards in early learning is some what COSTLY on lost arrows.

good luck

BEAR

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